FLOOR TILING

PREPARATION
Good preparation makes for an easy job, so take your time and plan ahead.

CONCRETE FLOORS
Dry, bare concrete floors are ideal for ceramic tiling and require no priming. New concrete must be at least six weeks old and thoroughly dry. The surface must be smooth, flat and free from dirt and grease. The smoother the concrete the easier the tiling, so use a levelling compound over rough floors if required. Some pointed concrete floors can react with tile adhesive and are not normally suitable for tiling.

TILING ONTO VINYL TILES (on concrete)
Existing vinyl tiles must be free of grease, polish etc., and Firmly adhered to the subfloor. Prime with Acrylic Primer before tiling.

TlLING ONTO EXISTING GLAZED & UNGLAZED TILES
Existing tiles must be clean, grease free and Firmly adhered to the subfloor. When tiling onto glazed tiles, a flexible additive should be used with the adhesive and grout for improved adhesion.

WOODEN FLOORS
Existing wooden floors must be rigid, stable and capable of supporting additionallood without flexing and have sufficient ventilation beneath. them. There are two basic methods to follow: - Wooden floors normally require covering with sheet plywood - not hardboard -to reduce any risk of movement (ceramic tiles do not bendl). Minimum 10mm (3/8") exterior or marine plywood should be screwed grid fashion at 200mm (8") centres and every 150mm (6") along the edges. Then prime with Acrylic Primer and tile as normal, adding Flexible Additive into the adhesive and grout. Alternatively, special 2-part adhesive can be used to tile directly onto unsealed floor boards. Grout with Flexible floor grout.

NOTE: If there is any doubt about the suitability of tiling onto your floor, you should consult a professional. 'Flooting' chipboard floors should be examined by a professional to ensure they are suitable for tiling.

FLOORING ADHESIVES
Working and drying times vary according to the weather, but the following should give you an idea of what to expect:
Rapid Set floor adhesive has a working time of approximately 45 minutes and can be walked on after about 6 hours. Normal Set floor adhesive has a working time of approximately 2 hours and can be walked on after about 24 hours.
For other adhesives, refer to the manufacturers instructions.

LAYING OUT OF TILES
1. If possible, remove all fixtures as tiling will raise the floor level by about 15mm.
2. Mark a chalk line on the floor down the centre of the room, parallel with the most suitable wall (normally this is achieved by viewing the room from the doorway). Before applying the adhesive, layout a row of tiles in each direction to check the fit and avoid ending up with small cuts.

CUTING TILES
Floor tiles are generally harder to cut than wall tiles and we suggest you use a professional tile cutter, available for sale or hire from Studio Ceramics. We also offer a tile cutting service for difficult cuts.

FIXING TILES
1. Using a notched trowel or spreader, spread tile cement to a depth of 4 - 12mm, depending on the tile. Comb the adhesive with a notched trowel ensuring that continuous parallel ribs of adhesive are formed. Do not mix & spread more cement than you can fix in 20 minutes.
2. Fix dry tiles immediately by pressing them into position with a slight sliding or twisting action. When laying floor tiles it is important to ensure that no air spaces are left beneath the tiles.
3. Use tile spacers to achieve a uniform size joint and help maintain 'squareness'.
4. Every 5 or 6 tiles use a spirit level or straight edge to ensure that all tiles are laid flat. Lift any proud or sunken tiles and add or remove adhesive before the adhesive has started to set.

GROUTING
When the tile adhesive has dried, force grout between the tiles with a grouting float or squeegee, and remove any surfoce grout. Finally, palish with a clean dry cloth.

MAINTENANCE
A quality ceramic floor should give many years trouble-free service with very little maintenance. Grit is the biggest enemy and a mat well adjacent to external doors is strong recommended.

IMPORTANT NOTE
Advice is given by Studio Ceramics lid and their representatives in good faith and far general guidance on. Since we are unable to check every installation, it is your responsibility to ensure correct materials and procedures are used.

- PEI Grade 1 - Wall tiling only
- PEI Grade 2 - Walls & some Domestic Bathroom Floors
- PEI Grade 3 - Average domestic use i.e. Conservatory or Bathroom
- PEI Grade 4 - All Domestic use & Medium Commercial Use
- PEl Grade 5 - All Domestic & Heavy Commercial

The resistance of ceramic floor tiles to frost damage depends on the water absorbancy of the clay used in the biscuit or body.
Most 'Red' Clay Frost Resistant to about -5 degrees Centigrade.
Mast White' Clay Frost Resistant to about -10 degrees Centigrade.
All 'Porcelain' Totally Frost proof.

Home Use
- Bathrooms & Toilets PEl Grade 3 or higher.
- For very high traffic bathroom floors, PEl Grade 2 can be used.
- Conservatory & Dining Rooms PEl Grade 3 or higher.
- Kitchens, Hallways & Entrances PEl Grade 4 ar higher.
- Outside Porch & any other outside use PEl Grade 4 or higher and Frost Proof.
- Commercial Use light to Medium Commercial Use PEl Grade 4 or higher.
- Medium to Heavy Commercial Use PEl Grade 5 Pubs, Take-aways.

Studio Ceramics
142 Beverley Road,
Hull,
East Yorkshire
TEL: #(44) 01482-223399
E-Mail: info@studio-ceramics.net
Open 7 days a week 9.0a.m. - 5.0p.m.